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Ready to tackle pasar shopping. |
After Christmas, I set a personal challenge for myself: I wanted to go to the local market (pasar in bahasa Indonesian) once a week. It's cheaper than the grocery store, a good way to practice my bahasa skills, and I personally find it to be fun. You never know what you're going to find, and there's something satisfying in picking out your own produce. Or, in my case, having the seller pick out tropical fruits for me so that I know they're going to taste good. They'll even ask me if I want to eat the fruit today or tomorrow, and will find one for me that will ripen accordingly!
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You never know what you'll find. This pasar had an area with remote control cars that you could rent to drive around for 15 minutes. Lydia was thrilled. |
You may wonder why it's such a challenge to go to the pasar. There are several reasons. First of all, it is a good 25 minute drive because of traffic, although it is actually only about 4 km away from us. (Welcome to convoluted Jakarta roads and immense amounts of traffic). Twenty-five minutes isn't a big deal, unless each moment in the car is a ticking time bomb with your toddler and 9 month old. Secondly, the drive to the pasar isn't the easiest. The first time I went with a friend, I thought to myself, I will never be able to do this on my own! A big part of the drive is down a narrow road full of potholes, with motorbikes zooming around. There are no stoplights, but several right hand turns across traffic, and the only way to make the turn is to go when the self-appointed traffic director waves you through. It is also polite, I learned, to pass a few coins out the window to the helpful traffic director.
Just imagine, turning the steering wheel with one hand and trying to inch as close to the car in front of you as possible so that no other vehicle can crowd you out, and at the same time, rolling down the window and handing out change, hoping it will land in the guy's hand as you are trying to simultaneously keep forward momentum and not hit the vehicle in front of you. I've learned to keep spare coins and small bills in the front of the car so that I am ready when a tip is needed. And believe me, I harbor no hard feelings towards tipping those traffic directors, who've made it their self appointed duty (or maybe it's appointed by someone else??) to stand in the hot dusty road all day, telling which cars to go and which cars to stop, breathing in the fumes of hundreds of exhaust pipes.
So, making it to the pasar is the first hurdle, and my first time driving there I felt pretty awesome. There is nothing so freeing as being able to get around in a new place!
The next challenge is the actual pasar visit, and the great unknown: how will my children behave? I think the only reason I've continued to make my weekly visits is because, mercifully, my first pasar visit wasn't a disaster. There were some tears, but Elias didn't cry in the car until we had about 5 minutes left in the drive. If he had started crying 5 minutes in, I probably would've turned around and headed home!
My general plan is to push Lydia in the stroller and provide her with some kind of snack or entertainment, and wear Elias in the baby carrier. Many times, he falls asleep during the last 5 minutes of the drive, and so I load his carseat on the stroller and hope that he will sleep through our entire visit. That's only happened once. I always come with a backpack so I can carry the produce that I buy.
Lydia and Elias are the stars (as usual) the moment I enter the pasar. The security guard always says hello to Lydia, asks what her name is, tells her she's beautiful or that she has beautiful hair, and peeks in at Elias as he sleeps. All the while pinching or patting Lydia as Lydia tries to hide in the stroller. Poor girl. There is no escaping the attention. I think that is the reason almost every pasar visit ends with Lydia in tears and asking to go home. If it's a good day, the tears won't come until the very end. At almost every vendor we buy from, Lydia gets patted, talked to, gushed over, pinched or squeezed and told how beautiful she is and how soft and silky her hair is. There might be a picture or two taken. As a parent, I'm not sure how to deal with it. Indonesians love children and mean it for the best. Culturally, this is their norm, so I can't exactly tell them to cut it out and leave her alone. I'm still searching for the best way to indirectly say, "please don't touch her," without being terribly offensive.
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This is a common occurrence (although this photo wasn't taken at the pasar). I don't know how many random strangers have pictures of Lydia. |
As for Elias, he's usually safely buckled into the carseat sleeping, or strapped into my carrier, making him much less accessible to touching. And his hair isn't as blond as Lydia's. But even when he's sleeping and I have two shades over him, that doesn't stop people from pulling back the cover, peering in, commenting on how he's sleeping, all while I'm saying, "shhhh!" with a smile and gritted teeth. Please don't wake the baby!! Or as I'm walking by, I hear people say, "two??," because I'm sure this is one of the most bizarre things they see at the market each week. A foreigner with a stroller carting around her two young kids. No helper in tow to carry the groceries, no nanny holding the baby (why isn't she holding the baby, but inhumanely sticking him in a stroller??) and not shopping at the air conditioned grocery store down the road. But people are always delighted to see the kids. The one time I didn't bring them with me, people asked me where they were. I saw far fewer smiles and wasn't nearly as popular that day.
While I'm at the pasar, I stop at my main vegetable ladies first, then if they don't have everything I need, I go on to search for my other vegetables. Next I tackle the fruit stand, and if I have to buy a watermelon, I hope that Elias is awake so that I can load it into the back seat of the stroller. By the time I'm finished buying the fruit, I'm sweating, trying to navigate the stroller which is heavier and not easy to steer, and both kids are getting antsy. I might be able to distract Lydia at the fish stand as she delightedly watches them swim and splash. Lydia usually is given some kind of fruit from the sellers, either a little banana or a small orange. This last time we went, one of the vendors was enticing Lydia with the balloons she was selling. (I think indirectly trying to get me to buy one for her).
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Lydia's true feelings about the pasar (and one of my friends in the background). |
I try to make a quick stop at the coconut stand to get freshly grated coconut (for only about sixty cents), get some eggs, perhaps some beef (sliced for me on the spot) and maybe some spinach from the organic vegetable stand. There's much more I could buy there, but I need another tutorial from my Indonesian friends: who should I buy my rice from? Who sells the best chicken and fish? Should I buy my pork there as well?
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Telling them to cut my meat in small pieces. Do you see how sweaty Elias is? It's hot!! |
The first time I went to the pasar, my brain could hardly keep up with the Indonesian of the vendors. They would spout numbers at me and I would stare at them blankly, hand them some cash, and wait to see how much change I got back. It doesn't make it any easier that money numbers are huge here. There are no 1, 2, or 5 dollar bills. There are 2,000; 5,000; 10,000 rupiah bills. I could easily be told the price is 132,000.500. Now imagine hearing that number in another language. It sounds like: se ratus tiga puluh dua ribu lima ratus rupiah. Yikes. Finally, my listening comprehension is starting to improve, although I still have a long way to go.
It's a hot, sweaty adventure, a race against time, a deciphering game, and an attempt to feel like I live in Indonesia. I come home loaded with produce and any other odds and ends I've managed to get before my time bombs go off and tears erupt. I arrive home feeling slightly triumphant, ready for a shower, and relieved that we all survived.